The Kehlsteinhaus
Visiting any location with an historical reference to brutality or tragedy is a personal decision. Does visiting glorify the people and events involved or does it promote their legacy to a new generation, or does it in fact allow for the learning of the lessons of the past. H and I have tendered to think the latter is correct, although so far we have avoided the death camps from the last world war. We have however visited Nelson Mandela’s cell on Robben Island, Ground Zero in New York before its rebuild , Rorkes Drift in KwaZulu Natal and more recently the Eagles Nest and the Nazi Documentation Centre in Bavaria. As well as other European sites of atrocities such as Oradour Sur Glane in France.
The regional heartland of German Socialism was located around Berchtesgaden, a town in the Bavarian Alps on the Austrian border. Nearby to the South is the Obersalzberg, a mountain area that hosted retreats for the senior Nazi’s, including Hitler, Bormann , Goering among others. Hitler’s home the Berghof, now destroyed, was also located there. A large area was cordoned off by SS troops and all property compulsory purchased in one way or another ( bribery or coercion). A complex network of tunnels was built under ground connecting the properties of the senior Nazi’s. It was being readied as a defensive position for the last stand of the Nazi’s after Berlin fell , but Hitler refused to leave Berlin and the rest is well documented history.
Meanwhile an attack force took off from bases in the United Kingdom, comprising of 359 Avro Lancaster heavy bombers drawn from 22 squadrons. They were accompanied by 16 de Havilland Mosquito light bombers whose role was to guide the bombers to the target using their navigation system. The bombers were escorted by 13 British fighter squadrons and 98 North American P-51 Mustang fighters from the Eighth Air Force. The date was the 25th April 1945 and although the only senior Nazi present at the time was Goering, who survived, the damage was done . Hitler ordered the Berghof to be destroyed and the position abandoned.
World War II Memorial and Educational Center Obersalzberg
The network of underground tunnels is now part of the Nazi Documentation Centre and on visiting you get a sense that the tunnels, which survived massive aerial attack, were well built by the thousands of workers deported from occupied countries and brought to this location. The new centre is a collection of documents and photographs which make for difficult viewing but if you have a factual eye rather than an emotional one , the historical documentation is important. For more information this is the link to the Centre https://www.berchtesgaden.de/en/salt-history/world-war-ii-memorial-educational-center
The Eagles Nest
The Kehlsteinhaus or Eagles Nest sits at the top of the Kehlstein, a rocky outcrop that rises above the Obersalzberg. It was used exclusively by members of the Nazi Party for government and social meetings. It’s use by Hitler is somewhat overplayed , however there are 14 documented visits by Adolf Hitler. It was commissioned by Martin Bormann in the summer of 1937. Probably the most infamous world leader to attend the Eagles Nest was Benito Mussolini.
A 4m wide approach road climbs 800m over 4.0 miles through five tunnels to reach the property. An entry tunnel then leads to an ornate elevator that ascends the final 124m to the building. The tunnel is lined with marble and was originally heated, with warm air from an adjoining service tunnel.
The inside of the large elevator is surfaced with polished brass, Venetian mirrors, and green leather. The building's main reception room is dominated by a fireplace of red Italian marble presented by Italian dictator Benito Mussolini, which was damaged by souvenir hunting Allied troops.
Unlike the Documentation Centre and Bunker complex, this didn’t have the smell of evil about it , it felt as it was , simply a restaurant complex with wonderful views of the mountains , except of course that it was misty when we visited. There was a strange moment however after I took an image of Helen on the balcony, only seconds later to find a displayed image of Hitler in almost the same spot. Check out the images above.
It is well worth a visit and together with the Nazi Documentation Centre represents a period in history which should be remembered and understood.
Berchtesgaden
Berchtesgaden is a lovely place to visit and our campsite was within easy walking of the town. The bus stop outside also gave easy access across the border into Austria and Salzburg by public transport , but that’s a story for another day, as is more information about Berchtesgaden.
This is a worthwhile visit but it’s hard to imagine that an area of such natural beautiful would be considered the centre of an evil personality cult. But right there, is the lesson from history, in the right conditions it can be and often will be.
